We supply and fit skylight windows in Morden, from opening roof windows in lofts to flat rooflights on extensions and sun tunnels for dark landings. This page is for homeowners who want more daylight and fresh air from above. It covers the types we fit, how each one goes in, what drives the cost and how to choose the right one for your roof.
Every skylight is fitted by our own FENSA-registered team and comes with a 10-year guarantee. We work across Merton, and our main skylights page covers the full range. Here we look at what matters for roofs and homes in Morden.
Skylights in Morden: local notes
- Typical housing stock: 1930s semis and terraces, including the St Helier cottage estate, with some flats
- Planning: Parts of the area are covered by conservation area rules, so check with the council before changing windows on the front of a house. Building control is handled by Merton Council.
The shape of the roof and how we reach it decide a lot about the job. We check both at the survey. For more on the area, see our page on double glazing in Morden.
Which Skylight Type Suits Your Room?
The right skylight depends on the roof, the room below and what you want from it. These are the main types we fit.
- Pitched roof windows. Set into a sloping roof, in line with the tiles or slates. They open on a centre pivot or top hinge. They suit loft rooms, bedrooms and bathrooms under the eaves.
- Flat rooflights. A double or triple glazed unit on an upstand. They suit single-storey extensions, kitchens and garden rooms. They can be fixed shut or open with an electric motor.
- Lantern roofs. A raised glass roof with a frame, like a small glass pyramid or ridge. They bring a lot of light into a large kitchen or living space.
- Sun tunnels. A small dome on the roof and a mirror-lined tube that brings light down to a ceiling diffuser. They suit landings, hallways and bathrooms with no window. See our sun tunnels page.
- Conservation rooflights. Slim, low-profile frames in steel grey or black that sit flush with slate. They suit older homes and conservation areas.
As a rule, a roof window gives about twice as much light as a wall window of the same size, because it faces the open sky.
How Each Type Is Fitted
Each skylight goes in a little differently. We plan the job around the roof you have.
Pitched roof windows. We strip back a section of tiles or slates and cut the opening between the rafters. If the window is wider than the gap, we trim the rafters and fit new timbers to carry the load. A flashing kit made for your roof covering seals the frame to the roof. We then insulate around the frame and finish the lining inside.
Flat rooflights. We cut the roof deck, build a timber kerb and seal it into the roof covering. The rooflight then sits on the kerb. On a new extension, the builder may form the kerb and we fit the glass.
Sun tunnels. These are the quickest to fit. We cut a small hole in the roof and the ceiling, then link them with the tube. Most take half a day.
The steps from survey to aftercare are the same for every product we sell. They are set out on our how we work page.
Glass, Warmth and Light Control
A skylight faces the sky all day, so the glass needs to work hard. All our units are double glazed with low-E coating and argon gas as standard. Roof glass must meet Part L. For a roof window, the limit is a U-value of 1.6 W/m²K, and good units come in well below that.
You can upgrade to:
- Triple glazing for a lower U-value and less noise from rain. Our triple glazing page explains how it works.
- Solar control glass to cut glare and heat in south-facing rooms.
- Laminated inner pane for safety. If the glass breaks, it stays in one piece.
- Self-cleaning outer pane that uses daylight and rain to shift dirt.
Blinds make a big difference. Blackout blinds suit bedrooms. Heat-blocking awning blinds on the outside keep the room cool in summer. Electric and solar-powered blinds are easy to use on high windows.
Planning and Building Regulations
Most roof windows count as permitted development. That means you can fit them without planning permission, as long as they:
- Do not stick out more than 150mm from the roof slope.
- Are no higher than the highest part of the roof.
- Are obscure glazed and fixed shut if they are on a side roof and lower than 1.7m from the floor.
The rules are tighter in conservation areas and for listed buildings. A roof window on the front slope may need consent, and the council may ask for a low-profile conservation rooflight. Flats do not have permitted development rights, so check before you plan.
Building Regulations always apply. The roof must still carry its load, the glass must meet Part L and, in a loft room, the window may need to work as a fire escape. As FENSA members, we sign off the glazing part of the job for you. If structural work is needed, we will tell you at the survey.
What Drives the Cost of Skylights
We do not list fixed prices on this page. The cost of a skylight depends on:
- The type and size of the unit.
- Whether it is fixed, manual or electric opening.
- The roof covering, such as slate, plain tile or felt, and the flashing kit needed.
- Any rafter trimming or extra timber work.
- The glass spec and any blinds.
- Access, such as a tower or scaffold to reach the roof.
- The internal finish, such as plaster lining and decoration.
Every job gets a written, fixed quote after a free survey. Book yours on our get a quote page.
Planning a Wider Project
A skylight is often part of a bigger job, such as a loft room or a new rear extension. If you are doing the work in stages, we can fit other glazing at the same time. Many people add new casement windows to a loft gable or rear wall so the frames and glass match. Others add a new composite door while the builders are on site.
Doing it in one visit means one survey, one set of access costs and one certificate. It also keeps the frame colours and glass the same across the house.
Care and Maintenance
Skylights need very little care. Clean the glass inside and out two or three times a year. Most pitched roof windows turn round so you can clean the outer pane from inside. Clear leaves and moss from around the flashing in autumn. Check the seals once a year.
If a roof window starts to stick, or you see damp stains on the lining, call us. It is often a small fix, such as a worn seal or a blocked gutter on the flashing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do skylights add value to a home?
A well placed skylight makes a dark room bright and more useful, which buyers notice. It is a key part of most loft rooms, and a loft room adds living space. The key is to fit the right size in the right place, with good glass and blinds, so the room stays warm in winter and cool in summer.
Can you fit a skylight in a listed building or conservation area?
Often, yes, but you may need consent. In conservation areas, a roof window on the rear slope is easier to get agreed than one on the front. Councils often ask for a slim conservation rooflight that sits flush with the slates. For a listed building, you need listed building consent. We can help with the product details for your application.
Are skylights safe in storms and heavy rain?
Yes. The outer pane is toughened glass, built to take hail and storms. The flashing kit sends rain around the frame and into the gutter. Electric roof windows can have a rain sensor that shuts them as soon as it starts to rain. The main thing is to keep the flashing clear of leaves and moss.
Will a skylight make the room noisy when it rains?
Rain on glass is louder than rain on tiles, but modern units cut most of it. Laminated glass and triple glazing reduce the noise further. If the skylight is over a bedroom, ask for one of these upgrades. A blind also helps to soften the sound.
Can you add blinds after the skylight is fitted?
Yes. Most roof windows have fixing points for blinds built into the frame, so they clip in without drilling. We can fit blackout, roller, pleated or outside awning blinds at any time. Electric and solar-powered blinds can be added too. Give us the code on the frame label and we can order the right size.